The Corryvreckan Whirlpool

By Diane Maclean

Caught between the west coast of Argyll and the Isle of Jura is one of Scotland’s hidden treasures – if, that is, you consider a deadly killer a treasure. As with all things terrifying you can hear the sound of this beast before you see it. When the conditions are right its mighty roar carries over 20 miles. It has taken many lives and it is rightly feared. If you’re feeling brave, then you too can visit, and take on the might of, the Corryvreckan Whirlpool.

She (for she’s a lady) is the third largest whirlpool in the world, and one of only seven in existence. She is formed by the narrowing of the straits between Jura and the mainland, where the bruising waters of the Atlantic are pushed through a small channel. Add to the mix a 200-metre pinnacle of underwater rock, spiking up to just below the surface, and you have all the ingredients for one of nature’s most awesome sights.

The Royal Navy warns that it is one of the most dangerous stretches of water in Britain. Although they stop short of saying it is un-navigable they do consider it “very violent and dangerous’, warning no-one to try and pass it unless they have local knowledge.

The whirlpool is associated with many myths and stories. One holds that the name derived from a Viking prince called Breacan who was courting the Lord of the Isle’s daughter. In order to prove his strength, and win her hand in marriage, he was challenged to hold his boat steady in the maelstrom for three days. His father advised him to gather three ropes: one woolen, one hemp and a final one made from the hair of local virgins. The first night the wool rope snapped; the second, the hemp. But Breacon looked to be OK as the hair rope held. Then on the third night it snapped too – which suggests that one of the villagers was no longer a maiden. For want of her virginity, a local lady caused the death of the poor prince.

A Scottish myth links the whirlpool with the Goddess of winter, Cailleach Bheur who washes her blankets in the waters off Jura. She scrubs them violently for three days after which they are a dazzling white. This she then spreads across the land as a blanket of snow.

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